Ethanolamines (DEA, TEA, MEA): why to avoid them and what to use instead
Can react with nitrosating agents in formula to form nitrosamines, a class that includes carcinogens; cocamide DEA is classified as a carcinogen in California.
The short answer
The parent DEA is already banned in the EU; the practical target is cocamide DEA and lauramide DEA in foaming products. Glucoside-based cleansers avoid the class entirely and are widely available.
- Where it hides
- Foaming shampoos, body washes, shaving creams, liquid soaps
- Cleaner swap
- Sulphate-free surfactant systems using coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside or sodium cocoyl isethionate.
- Also listed as
- Cocamide DEA, Triethanolamine, TEA, MEA, DEA
The label names to scan for
- Cocamide DEA
- Cocamide MEA
- Lauramide DEA
- Triethanolamine (TEA)
- Diethanolamine (DEA)
- DEA-cetyl phosphate
- TEA-lauryl sulfate
What regulators have actually done
The EU bans diethanolamine as a cosmetic ingredient and restricts DEA-containing compounds to trace nitrosamine limits. California lists cocamide DEA under Proposition 65. The US has no federal restriction.
Where the nitrosamine risk comes from
Ethanolamines are not themselves the concern in most formulations — the issue is their reaction with nitrosating agents, including some preservatives, to form N-nitrosodiethanolamine. That reaction can occur during storage, which is why EU rules set limits on residual nitrosamines rather than only on the input ingredient.
Reading a shampoo label
Names ending in DEA or MEA and 'triethanolamine' are the flags. They usually appear mid-list as foam boosters or pH adjusters. Their absence normally means the formula uses glucoside surfactants and citric acid instead.
Ethanolamines (DEA, TEA, MEA): frequently asked questions
Is triethanolamine as concerning as DEA?+
Less so — TEA is permitted in the EU with limits and is mainly a pH adjuster. DEA-derived amides are the higher-priority swap.
Do glucoside cleansers foam as well?+
Less dramatically, but they clean effectively. Sodium cocoyl isethionate gives a richer lather if foam matters to you.